The focus of this work was on the repercussions that the daily routine of the consumer plays on the health of the hair: from exposure to atmospheric agents, emotional stress, practices implemented for hair care, exposure to repeated coarse washing, unprotected drying, sun exposure. These are factors that lead to a decrease in the lipid content of the cell surface with consequent alteration of the chemical, structural and mechanical characteristics. The alteration of the health status of the hair has a series of consequences that go from the rippling to the loss of elasticity of the hair with consequent rupture, from the loss of shine to the dryness and fragility of the same, up to the real hair loss. About this it is important to underline the psychological impact that the hair plays on the quality of life of the individual.In particular, a greater incidence of psychological disorders in these types of subjects has been found compared to the rest of the population, very often are the cause of social isolation and loss of self-confidence.Since for the consumer it is important that the hair preserves some characteristics ranging from shine to softness, which resists the breaking without split ends and in general that is strong and healthy, maintaining a constant growth both in diameter and in length, in the present study has begun the development of a formulation intended for nebulization on the hair able to improve appearance and properties. To do this the behavior of a suspension of optimized cationic lipid nanoparticles applied to the hair as such and potentially in a suitable vehicle was evaluated. Furthermore, to reproduce the alterations in the health of the scalp, the samples in analysis represented by standardized hair strands, were subjected to chemical / physical stress in order to reproduce the condition of fragile hair.It was necessary to evaluate and compare all those parameters whose values can discriminate between healthy hair and fragile hair, starting from the morphological properties to the diameter and to the charge also verifying the wettability properties by measuring the contact angle, measurement of resistance to breakage, density of color and gloss.For the measurement of some of the parameters listed above such as: resistance to breakage, measurement of color density or evaluation of the gloss, an innovative tool was used, the “Filament Surface Tester o FST” for which the patent application was recently filed. A description is made of this tool that is presented in this work for the first time, altrought summary due to the obligation to protect confidential information, will trt to be as exhaustive as possibleThis is a device capable of performing non-destructive and non-invasive analyzes for the sample which does not undergo any alteration. It also operates in continuum and both in vivo and in vitro. Using a dedicated software, the tool is able to define indirect data that can be correlated to the properties of the filaments including, specifically, in the field of cosmetic eyelashes and hair. Therefore in general the instrument allows the qualitative-quantitative study of the surface characteristics of the filament and, indirectly, the structural properties.In particular, it is a tool whose versatility allows it to deviate from the cosmetic sector only to address more widely the industrial or medical sector. As far as the medical field is concerned, a preventive monitoring of the health of the hair can help prevent or diagnose hair diseases before the onset of it. This is a work in progress, both from an analytical and formative point of view, the expectation of which includes the possibility of including SNL + suspension in a formulation for topical use that can be used on the hair by the user. The results obtained in this study are very promising because the nanoparticles proved to be able to adhere specifically to the damaged areas of the hair leading to an improvement in the general conditions.
Il focus del presente lavoro è stato posto sulle ripercussioni che la quotidiana routine del consumatore gioca sullo stato di salute del capello: dall’esposizione ad agenti atmosferici, stress emotivi, pratiche messe in atto per la cura dei capelli, l'esposizione a ripetuti lavaggi grossolani, l'asciugatura non protetta, esposizione solare.Si tratta di fattori che portano ad una diminuzione del contenuto lipidico della superficie cellulare, con conseguente alterazione delle caratteristiche chimiche, strutturali e meccaniche.L’alterazione dello stato di salute dei capelli presenta una serie di conseguenze che vanno dall’increspamento alla perdita di elasticità del capello con conseguente rottura, dalla perdita di lucentezza alla fragilità degli stessi, fino alla vera e propria caduta dei capelli.A questo proposito è importante sottolineare l’impatto psicologico che gioca il capello sulla qualità della vita dell’individuo, legato a disturbi del cuoio capelluto, spesso causa della perdita di fiducia in sé stessi.Per soddisfare le esigenze del consumatore circa la possibilità di mantenere ottimale lo stato di salute del capello, è stata iniziata la messa a punto di una formulazione destinata alla nebulizzazione sul capello in grado di migliorarne aspetto e proprietà.Per farlo è stato valutato il comportamento di una sospensione di nanoparticelle lipidiche cationiche ottimizzate applicata sul capello tal quale e, potenzialmente, in un opportuno veicolo.Inoltre, per riprodurre le alterazioni dello stato di salute del cuoio capelluto, i campioni in analisi rappresentati da ciocche di capelli standardizzate, sono stati sottoposti a stress di natura chimica/fisica al fine di riprodurre la condizione di fragilità dei capelli.Sono stati confrontati tutti quei parametri i cui valori possono far discriminare tra capello sano e capello fragile, partendo dalle proprietà morfologiche, al diametro e alla carica, verificando inoltre le proprietà di bagnabilità mediante misura dell’angolo di contatto, misura della resistenza alla rottura, densità del colore e gloss.Per la misurazione di alcuni dei parametri sopra elencati, quali resistenza alla rottura, misura della densità del colore o valutazione del gloss, è stato utilizzato uno strumento innovativo, il “Filament Surface Tester o FST” di cui è stata recentemente depositata la domanda di brevetto. Di tale strumento, che viene presentato in questo lavoro per la prima volta, si effettua una descrizione esaustiva sebbene sommaria a causa dell’obbligo di tutelare informazioni riservate. Si tratta di un apparecchio in grado di eseguire delle analisi non distruttive e non invasive sul campione, il quale non subisce alcuna alterazione. Inoltre, opera in continuum e sia in vivo che in vitro. Servendosi di un software dedicato, lo strumento è in grado di definire dei dati indiretti correlabili alle proprietà dei filamenti, tra cui rientrano, specificatamente nell'ambito cosmetico ciglia e capelli. In generale lo strumento permette lo studio quali-quantitativo delle caratteristiche superficiali del filamento e, indirettamente, delle proprietà strutturali.In particolare, è uno strumento la cui versatilità permette di discostarsi dal solo settore cosmetico per rivolgersi più ampiamente a quello industriale o medico.Per quanto riguarda l’ambito medico ad esempio, un monitoraggio preventivo dello stato di salute del capello può aiutare a prevenire o eseguire diagnosi circa patologie del capello prima del loro esordio. Si tratta di un lavoro in corso la cui aspettativa prevede la possibilità di includere la sospensione di SNL+ in una formulazione ad uso topico che possa essere applicata sul capello da parte dell’utilizzatore.I risultati ottenuti in questo studio sono molto promettenti perché le nanoparticelle si sono dimostrate in grado di aderire specificatamente sulle zone danneggiate del capello portandone ad un miglioramento delle condizioni generali.
HAIR CARE E NANOSISTEMI CATIONICI: Protocolli Innovativi Per La Valutazione Di Prodotti Cosmetici e Medicali.
COLOSIO, ALESSANDRA
2018/2019
Abstract
The focus of this work was on the repercussions that the daily routine of the consumer plays on the health of the hair: from exposure to atmospheric agents, emotional stress, practices implemented for hair care, exposure to repeated coarse washing, unprotected drying, sun exposure. These are factors that lead to a decrease in the lipid content of the cell surface with consequent alteration of the chemical, structural and mechanical characteristics. The alteration of the health status of the hair has a series of consequences that go from the rippling to the loss of elasticity of the hair with consequent rupture, from the loss of shine to the dryness and fragility of the same, up to the real hair loss. About this it is important to underline the psychological impact that the hair plays on the quality of life of the individual.In particular, a greater incidence of psychological disorders in these types of subjects has been found compared to the rest of the population, very often are the cause of social isolation and loss of self-confidence.Since for the consumer it is important that the hair preserves some characteristics ranging from shine to softness, which resists the breaking without split ends and in general that is strong and healthy, maintaining a constant growth both in diameter and in length, in the present study has begun the development of a formulation intended for nebulization on the hair able to improve appearance and properties. To do this the behavior of a suspension of optimized cationic lipid nanoparticles applied to the hair as such and potentially in a suitable vehicle was evaluated. Furthermore, to reproduce the alterations in the health of the scalp, the samples in analysis represented by standardized hair strands, were subjected to chemical / physical stress in order to reproduce the condition of fragile hair.It was necessary to evaluate and compare all those parameters whose values can discriminate between healthy hair and fragile hair, starting from the morphological properties to the diameter and to the charge also verifying the wettability properties by measuring the contact angle, measurement of resistance to breakage, density of color and gloss.For the measurement of some of the parameters listed above such as: resistance to breakage, measurement of color density or evaluation of the gloss, an innovative tool was used, the “Filament Surface Tester o FST” for which the patent application was recently filed. A description is made of this tool that is presented in this work for the first time, altrought summary due to the obligation to protect confidential information, will trt to be as exhaustive as possibleThis is a device capable of performing non-destructive and non-invasive analyzes for the sample which does not undergo any alteration. It also operates in continuum and both in vivo and in vitro. Using a dedicated software, the tool is able to define indirect data that can be correlated to the properties of the filaments including, specifically, in the field of cosmetic eyelashes and hair. Therefore in general the instrument allows the qualitative-quantitative study of the surface characteristics of the filament and, indirectly, the structural properties.In particular, it is a tool whose versatility allows it to deviate from the cosmetic sector only to address more widely the industrial or medical sector. As far as the medical field is concerned, a preventive monitoring of the health of the hair can help prevent or diagnose hair diseases before the onset of it. This is a work in progress, both from an analytical and formative point of view, the expectation of which includes the possibility of including SNL + suspension in a formulation for topical use that can be used on the hair by the user. The results obtained in this study are very promising because the nanoparticles proved to be able to adhere specifically to the damaged areas of the hair leading to an improvement in the general conditions.È consentito all'utente scaricare e condividere i documenti disponibili a testo pieno in UNITESI UNIPV nel rispetto della licenza Creative Commons del tipo CC BY NC ND.
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https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.14239/23434