Today the hair dye sector is constantly evolving both from a chemical, technological and toxicological point of view. Hair dyes are cosmetics widely used on the world market and are used to improve their appearance, using effective products that can act both on healthy and damaged hair and mask the signs of aging. The use of hair dyes is mainly aimed at covering gray or white hair, to meet the need for change and to create a new look. Organic chemistry has produced a wide range of dyes to meet the different needs of the consumer. One of the first concerns of the cosmetics industry was to get the different shades of color using molecules of high purity and safety. The dyes enrich the hair by giving a coloring or discoloration for short time, temporary or longer depending on the degree of penetration inside the hair. From a regulatory point of view, hair dyes must meet safety criteria for consumer health protection. Producers are required to specify on the product label the ingredients and instructions to facilitate appropriate use. European Regulation 1223/2009 lays down specific provisions to ensure the safety of cosmetic products placed on the market and to protect the consumer. The final aim of the project, was to place on the market a new product for hair coloring by exploiting the simultaneous and unaltered leakage of the two creams (oxidant and dye) from an innovative packaging, limiting the amount of plastic material in the environment and allowing the product to be reused. The study carried out in recent months has been based on the formulation of oxidation dyes, that is preparations of emulsions O/A of cream dye and oxidant, further details regarding the study of the viscosity of the emulsion in contact with the final packaging. In the first phase of the work, the attention has been placed on the optimization of the qualitative-quantitative composition of the two emulsions in order to obtain rheological profiles suitable for the use in an innovative packaging. In the second phase instead, medium-term stability studies were carried out both at ambient temperature and in the oven at 40 of the formulations as they were and in the final containers for which the mechanical properties and surface potential were studied. These evaluations have led to the establishment of an appropriate protocol for the evaluation of content-container interactions. The results of this study have made it possible to achieve the objectives set and to define preparation and evaluation protocols to ensure the safety and quality of the final product.
Oggi giorno il settore dei coloranti per capelli è in continua evoluzione sia dal punto di vista chimico, tecnologico e tossicologico. Le tinture per capelli sono cosmetici ampiamente diffusi sul mercato mondiale e sono utilizzati per migliorare il proprio aspetto, ricorrendo a prodotti efficaci che possono agire sia sul capello sano che danneggiato e mascherare i segni dellinvecchiamento. Lutilizzo delle tinture per capelli è finalizzato principalmente a coprire i capelli grigi o bianchi, a soddisfare lesigenza di cambiamento e di creare un nuovo look. La chimica organica ha prodotto una vasta gamma di coloranti per soddisfare le diverse esigenze del consumatore. Una delle prime preoccupazioni dellindustria cosmetica è stata quella di ottenere le diverse nuances di colore utilizzando molecole di elevata purezza e sicurezza. I coloranti arricchiscono il capello impartendo una colorazione o decolorazione per tempi brevi, temporanei o di durata maggiore in base al grado di penetrazione allinterno del capello. Dal punto di vista normativo, i coloranti per capelli devono rispettare dei criteri di sicurezza per la tutela della salute del consumatore. I produttori sono tenuti a specificare sulletichetta del prodotto gli ingredienti e le istruzioni per favorire un utilizzo appropriato. Il Regolamento europeo 1223/2009 prevede disposizioni specifiche per garantire la sicurezza dei prodotti cosmetici immessi sul mercato e proteggere il consumatore. Lo scopo finale del progetto, è stato quello di immettere sul mercato un nuovo prodotto per la colorazione dei capelli sfruttando la fuoriuscita simultanea e inalterata delle due creme (ossidante e colorante) da un packaging innovativo, limitando la quantità di materiale plastico nellambiente e permettendo il riutilizzo del prodotto. Lo studio svolto in questi mesi si è basato sulla formulazione di tinture ad ossidazione, ovvero preparazioni di emulsioni O/A di crema colorante e ossidante, con ulteriori approfondimenti riguardanti lo studio della viscosità dellemulsione a contatto con il packaging finale. Nella prima fase del lavoro, lattenzione è stata riposta sullottimizzazione della composizione quali-quantitativa delle due emulsioni al fine di ottenere dei profili reologici idonei per lutilizzo in un packaging innovativo. Nella seconda fase invece, sono stati effettuati studi di stabilità a medio termine sia a temperatura ambiente che in stufa a 40 delle formulazioni tal quali e nei contenitori finali di cui sono state studiate le proprietà meccaniche ed il potenziale di superficie. Tali valutazioni hanno permesso di definire un idoneo protocollo per la valutazione delle interazioni contenuto-contenitore. I risultati di questo studio hanno permesso di ottenere gli obbiettivi prefissati e di definire dei protocolli di preparazione e valutazione per garantire la sicurezza e la qualità del prodotto finale.
Oxidation dye: ottimizzazione delle proprietà reologiche in relazione al packaging primario
CARRIERI, DANIELA
2018/2019
Abstract
Today the hair dye sector is constantly evolving both from a chemical, technological and toxicological point of view. Hair dyes are cosmetics widely used on the world market and are used to improve their appearance, using effective products that can act both on healthy and damaged hair and mask the signs of aging. The use of hair dyes is mainly aimed at covering gray or white hair, to meet the need for change and to create a new look. Organic chemistry has produced a wide range of dyes to meet the different needs of the consumer. One of the first concerns of the cosmetics industry was to get the different shades of color using molecules of high purity and safety. The dyes enrich the hair by giving a coloring or discoloration for short time, temporary or longer depending on the degree of penetration inside the hair. From a regulatory point of view, hair dyes must meet safety criteria for consumer health protection. Producers are required to specify on the product label the ingredients and instructions to facilitate appropriate use. European Regulation 1223/2009 lays down specific provisions to ensure the safety of cosmetic products placed on the market and to protect the consumer. The final aim of the project, was to place on the market a new product for hair coloring by exploiting the simultaneous and unaltered leakage of the two creams (oxidant and dye) from an innovative packaging, limiting the amount of plastic material in the environment and allowing the product to be reused. The study carried out in recent months has been based on the formulation of oxidation dyes, that is preparations of emulsions O/A of cream dye and oxidant, further details regarding the study of the viscosity of the emulsion in contact with the final packaging. In the first phase of the work, the attention has been placed on the optimization of the qualitative-quantitative composition of the two emulsions in order to obtain rheological profiles suitable for the use in an innovative packaging. In the second phase instead, medium-term stability studies were carried out both at ambient temperature and in the oven at 40 of the formulations as they were and in the final containers for which the mechanical properties and surface potential were studied. These evaluations have led to the establishment of an appropriate protocol for the evaluation of content-container interactions. The results of this study have made it possible to achieve the objectives set and to define preparation and evaluation protocols to ensure the safety and quality of the final product.È consentito all'utente scaricare e condividere i documenti disponibili a testo pieno in UNITESI UNIPV nel rispetto della licenza Creative Commons del tipo CC BY NC ND.
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https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.14239/25710